SU MA and the Art of Contemporary East Asian Dining

SU MA and the Art of Contemporary East Asian Dining 

How Executive Chef Brendon Chen and Co-Executive Chef Ryan Kim continue to shape SU MA through care, craftsmanship, and cultural influence 

For the past three years, SU MA has quietly carved its place within Jakarta’s dining landscape through an approach that values patience over haste, substance over spectacle, and care over convention. Rooted in East Asian culinary traditions, particularly those of China and Korea, the restaurant views food not merely as nourishment, but as an enduring act of care and connection. 

This philosophy continues to evolve through Volume 6: Passage, SU MA’s current culinary expression that explores the ideas of movement, transformation, and progression. More than a seasonal menu, each volume represents a chapter in the restaurant’s ongoing journey, one that is shaped by the people behind it. 

At the heart of SU MA today are Executive Chef Brendon Chen and Co-Executive Chef Ryan Kim, whose distinct backgrounds and shared values have come together to shape the restaurant’s contemporary East Asian identity. 

While Chef Ryan has been part of SU MA’s culinary journey, contributing to the restaurant’s development through his pastry expertise and East Asian sensibilities, the appointment of Chef Brendon earlier this year marked a significant new chapter for the restaurant. Together, they continue to refine SU MA’s philosophy through a balance of tradition, craftsmanship, and contemporary thinking. 

For Chef Brendon, food has always been deeply personal. Raised in a Chinese-Malaysian household, his earliest memories were shaped by watching his mother and grandmother cook with patience and intention. These experiences laid the foundation for a culinary philosophy centered on care, respect, and precision. 

After formal training at Le Cordon Bleu London, Chef Brendon built his career across some of Asia and Europe’s most respected kitchens, including Michelin-starred Restaurant du Vieux Pont, MUME, Restaurant Studio, and Nadodi. Prior to joining SU MA, he founded  Playte in Kuala Lumpur, a restaurant that would later receive recognition from the Michelin Guide. 

Reflecting on his approach to cooking, Chef Brendon believes that modern techniques should not replace tradition, but rather deepen and express it. “At SU MA, we are not trying to recreate tradition exactly as it was, nor are we trying to move away from it. We see tradition as something living—something that can continue to evolve while still respecting its origins. Through fermentation, seasonality, and thoughtful technique, we aim to create experiences that feel both familiar and new,” says Chef Brendon Chen. 

Alongside him is Co-Executive Chef Ryan Kim, whose culinary path began in South Korea before expanding through studies in cuisine and pastry at Le Cordon Bleu Australia. His experience includes some of Australia’s most acclaimed restaurants, including Quay and Bennelong, before returning to Korea to further refine his craft in the world of high-end desserts. 

In 2020, Chef Ryan moved to Indonesia and later founded Fragments, a Korean-inspired dessert concept that has since grown into a recognized destination in Jakarta. “For me, dining is about creating moments that people remember long after the meal is over. Whether through desserts or the overall progression of the experience, I hope guests can feel a sense of warmth, care, and connection throughout their time at SU MA,” shares Chef Ryan Kim. 

This philosophy is reflected throughout Volume 6: Passage, where each course unfolds as part of a carefully considered progression, revealing moments of lightness and depth, familiarity and discovery. Rather than seeking to impress through excess, the experience invites guests to slow down, engage their senses, and appreciate the subtle beauty found within every detail. 

As SU MA continues to evolve, each volume serves as a passage between past and future, honoring traditions while embracing new perspectives. Guided by the vision of Chef Brendon Chen and Chef Ryan Kim, the restaurant remains committed to creating experiences that are thoughtful, immersive, and grounded in care.