Have you ever stumbled upon postcards of pastel-coloured houses lining the shore in the heart of the Italian Riviera? That’s Portofino.
The coastal town southeast of Genoa City is one of the most notable resort towns on the coastline. Set on the Ligurian Sea, Portofino’s serene crescent harbour is adorned with a hill of olive groves and small vineyards in the background. Only 500 permanent residents coexist; fishing families, shop owners, people with hotels or restaurants, those working in Genoa, and the elderly embody Dolce Vita (a life of heedless pleasure and luxury).
Day Trip to Portofino
When the sun strikes and the yachts drop anchor in the harbour, this town clustered around its small harbour is flanked by wandering souls seeking Dolce Vita; roaming the boutiques, art galleries, cafes, and restaurants fringing the tiny streets. Portofino has attracted leisure seekers from all around the world since the late 19th century! Here’s how you can spend a day in Portofino.
Getting to Portofino
Portofino is not the easiest place to get to. But when there’s a will, there’s always a way…
The quickest way to travel to Portofino is to first arrive in Genoa, Italy. Driving for about 30 minutes is one way. Another is by taking the train from the Genoa Brignole train station to Santa Margherita Ligure train station, then purchasing a Bus 82 ticket at the train station. This travel option would last at least 1.5 hours. But, it is advisable to add 30-60 minutes for the bus, which depends on its interval arrival, the road’s traffic, plus the season of your visit. Regardless of your chosen mode of transportation, it’s best to start your journey as early as possible!
A quick swim at Portofino’s hidden beach
Diving, hiking and beach-going are popular local pastimes. Portofino features some of the most exquisite beaches, yet a hidden beach is buzzing nowadays. Again, there are two ways to get there. First is by walking from the town centre and second is walking from the bus stop.
Choose the latter for now. Aren’t you tempted to swim in the water the moment you step out of the bus?
Go towards Hotel Piccolo. Across from the hotel’s temporary parking is a sign by the green lamp post. Go down those green stairs to get to the beach. You’ll find a nook extending to a cerulean body of water, against the pastel-coloured buildings. Ideally, the morning is the best time to don your swimwear and join a handful of people splashing at this small and secluded secret beach.
Finally in town - sightseeing, dining, and shopping
Sun-kissed skin and saltwater in your hair must feel refreshing after your journey to Portofino. Walk a bit more and you’re finally in town!
Prepare to do tons of walking. Head to Portofino’s Piazzetta first, a small cobbled square overlooking gleaming yachts mooring the harbour. Before continuing further, don’t let yourself go hangry wandering Portofino. Most restaurants require reservations, though.
Savour the traditional techniques of an Italian nonna intertwined with the mastery of a clan with three Michelin stars - like an A-list celebrity - at DaV Mare, the first DaV restaurant to open outside of the Da Vittorio family circle. Liguria’s simple pleasures and big flavours are purely translated into DaV Mare’s fresh seafood lunch and hearty Italian breakfast by a stunning waterside setting at Splendido Mare, a Belmond Hotel, on Portofino's La Piazzetta.
A path from the Piazzetta leads to the luscious grounds of Castello Brown, a 16th-century fortress and museum showcasing art exhibitions and festivals, as well as panoramic vistas of the town and the Ligurian Sea. Climbing for several steps will get you to Portofino’s most unforgettable, mesmerising view. That postcard you saw years ago - well, it’s finally before your eyes. Climb further onto a circular parapet to ponder on the towers, steeples, villas, piazzas, harbour and sea very far below.
Chiesa San Georgio and the Church of St. Martin (Divo Martino) are a couple of historic sights to get lost in. But if that’s not your idea of Dolce Vita, continue your day trip wandering the small alleyways where high-end brands such as Loro Piana, Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Missoni are open.
Enough time for aperitivo
Exclusive bars and restaurants offer Portofino’s peculiar nightlife, centred in and around the Piazzetta and Molo Umberto I. “Aperitivo”, or happy hour, starts at 5 or 6 PM. The Piazzetta enlivens; leisure seekers enjoy a glass of wine or an Aperol Spritz along with an assortment of nibbles that often accompany the drinks.
Winterose Bar is situated away from the more crowded alleys. Here, a front-row view of the bay is enhanced by a glass of wine and plates of appetisers made with Parma ham and Valtellina cheese. From Mariuccia Bar’s veranda, you can pick out both the bay and the bustling main square while sipping on a glass of Aperol or prosecco.
Your ride back awaits
The best times to visit Portofino are during spring and autumn. You’ll probably have to dive into a sea of vacationers in summer, especially on the weekends. Winter, on the other hand, could be too cold.
Saying arrivederci (goodbye) to Portofino is tough. But as you have had a brief encounter with the charming resort town, your next trip could be extended until you become one of the local nonne and nonni (grandmas and grandpas).