Deep within the rugged peaks of the Aceh Province is the heartland of the Gayo tribe. Perhaps you’re a devoted coffee admirer, then you’d most likely heard of the world-renowned Gayo coffee. But we’ll get on to that in a minute… Ever heard of the folks behind those coffee beans? They’re part of an indigenous group abundant in their own way of life, much like other Indonesian tribes.
The Gayo tribe is the second-largest ethnic group in Aceh after the Acehnese. Their history is woefully not widely documented to this day. Many authors even claimed that traces of the Gayonese origins are not much written in historical sources.
One states that a historic realm in Aceh, then called the Linge Kingdom, was ruled by Adi Genali in 1025 AD. This royal lineage is deemed to be the origins of the Gayo - at least that's what generations to generations have passed their wisdom on.
The earliest references to the Gayo people can be found in the “Hikayat Raja-raja Pasai”, which tells the story of Aceh’s kings who ruled from 1280 to 1400, including the connection between the Gayo people and the local resistance against Islamisation.
According to the classic Malay literary work, a group fled from the surrounding regions and followed the Peusangan River upstream. They settled in the highlands and eventually embraced Islam.
“The Gayo people are highly devoted to Islam, so much so that their customs, culture, and educational systems are all based on Islamic principles," wrote Sofyan Abdi in his academic work, “Konsep Nilai Islam dalam Nilai Mukemel dan Sistem Suku Gayo”. The highest cultural value within the Gayo community is the Mukemel concept, which represents a sense of modesty, according to Islamic teachings. Islam has ultimately integrated into local traditions, including medicine and folk healing practices, and has influenced the Gayo people’s metaphysical beliefs.
Economic factors played a critical role in the scattering locations of the tribe. They're primarily farmers, with coffee cultivation being a major source of livelihood. Nearly the entire highland area is dedicated to coffee plantations, centring the districts of Aceh Tengah, Bener Meriah, and Gayo Lues. They’re also skilled artisans of pottery, weaving, and making textiles - yet, many sought better opportunities due to limited agricultural and plantation land as the nights changed.
The Gayo tribe, along with its sub-groups, occupies several areas.
The Gayo Laut
Aceh Tengah and Bener Meriah districts; such as Takengon, Linge, Bebesan, Pegasing, and Bintang.
Bener Meriah; such as Redelong, Pondok Baru, Wih Pesam, and Timang Gajah.
The Gayo Lues
Blangkejeren, Rikit, Tenrangun, and Kuta Panjang.
The Gayo Blang
Aceh Tamiang district.
Nonetheless, Gayonese history is deeply intertwined with the region’s affluent heritage. Take Silvie as a sample of proof.
Silvie currently lives far away from her birthplace of Takengon, a city from the Gayo ethnic group in Central Aceh. She may be occupied splitting her days in a Jakarta-based PR consultancy and being a mother of one in South Tangerang, nevertheless, this youngest child of three never dismisses her roots.
The word “beauty” remains to linger as the best description of the Gayo tribe.
“True to its Sanskrit meaning, ‘Gayo’ translates to ‘mountain’, and for me, mountains have an exceptional beauty like no other,” she gushed.
Takengon’s natural scenery is notably impressive. Its carpet of rich, living green valleys coated in mist is adjacent to idyllic waterfalls, such as Lawe Alas and Lawe Pakat. The serene Lake Laut Tawar is surrounded by emerald hills and coffee plantations - a personal favourite for Silvie. A delightful chill that kisses the skin cloaks the town enveloped by mountains. Being outdoors is a pleasant pastime for Silvie and the other folks.
The Gayo’s close-knit family structure is reflected in their houses. A traditional Gayo house typically contains five to nine rooms, depending on the size of the family. One of the rooms in the house, called Umah Rinung, is typically reserved for the immediate family, consisting of the father, mother, and children.
“Yes, I can proudly say I’m a pure Gayo descendant,” Silvie giggled. Both of her parents, as well as her grandparents, are all from the Gayo ethnic group. Her parents and extended family have always made sure to instil Gayo traditions and culture across the chapters of her existence.
The Gayo language is spoken in their everyday conversations. Silvie and her family use it when they gather at home. Don’t get twisted with the Acehnese language spoken by the Acehnese people - the Gayonese is distinct! Plus, each region has its own unique dialect when speaking Gayo.
The language has existed as long as the Gayo people have inhabited their region, although its development timeline remains unclear. Over time, the language has evolved with the tribe’s migration patterns, resulting in a plethora of dialects and vocabulary differences across different Gayo communities. For example, Gayo Laut has two sub-dialects (Lut and Deret) while Gayo Lues has three sub-dialects, (Lues, Kalul, and Lokop).
“And my mother’s cooking of traditional Gayo dishes is always a family favourite during major family events,” she recalled.
Gayo cuisine, moreover, indicates their connection to the land. Local and seasonal ingredients such as rice, cassava, coconut, and fresh vegetables are pervasive. Dash in the bold, complex, and aromatic flavours of local spices and herbs. Turmeric, ginger, lemongrass, coriander, and garlic concoct curries, stews, and rice dishes; meanwhile, chilli, cumin, kaffir lime leaves, galingale, fennel, pandan leaves, and cinnamon are also thrown into the dishes to enhance the richness, warmth, and fragrance of the dishes. Behold - the hearty, delectable, and deeply satisfying Gayo cuisine springs to life in the tastebuds.
Regarding how much Silvie values her Gayo heritage based on a scale of 1-10, she enthusiastically answered, “Definitely a 10!”
Silvie danced through the years of maturity while tightly embracing the traditions and customs of the Gayo, which have undeniably been a favourite part of her upbringing. The will to keep heritage alive holds a presence in the world. Time is of the essence. Perhaps not now, but there’ll someday be a chance for Silvie to take her 9.5-year-old daughter on an adventure of a lifetime to her homeland.
“I’m eager to introduce her to the heritage, culture, and traditions of my birthplace and show her the beauty of the village where I was born,” she expressed.
Home is Pondok Gajah, a village in the Bandar district of Bener Meriah, Aceh Province. This mother dwells in movies and music whenever she takes time for herself. It’s a different case when she’s back home. “My favourite spot when I visit is Lake Laut Tawar in Takengon, which is an iconic and mesmerising place. The lake, surrounded by lush hills, never fails to amaze me."
“I hold my hometown heritage in the highest regard. The warm sense of family, the deeply rooted traditions, the rich culture, the abundant natural resources, and, of course, being a coffee lover, Gayo coffee is a source of immense pride for me,” she continued.
That brings to Gayo coffee - it undoubtedly flashes before her alongside her homeland when nostalgia swallows her. One of the globally recognised best coffees comes from the Gayo region, and she’s incredibly proud to be part of this beautiful land.
Gayo coffee is often used as a component in various house blends due to its robust and distinctive flavour of nutty, almost buttery note with a delightful spiced aroma. Bitter? Absolutely not. It actually has a subtle hint of sweetness, with a low acidity. Bergendal, Rambung, Sidikalang, Lini Ethiopia, and Timtim Arabusta are the Gayo coffee variations one can relish with a V60 or the pour-over method using a French press, Vietnam drip, or Aeropress. Head to the Indonesian Coffee Gallery to truly be in awe.
Endless horizons of the Gayo’s discovery await. “It goes beyond Gayo coffee and the Saman dance!” she exclaimed. “The Gayo people still practice unique traditions like Pepongoten, a traditional oral lamentation performed during weddings or funerals, primarily sung by Gayo women. We also hold an annual traditional horse race alongside a community festival.”
Another tradition, which she personally cherishes, is the Didong Gayo, a traditional art form performed in a circle, led by a “ceh” (singer), with hand claps and small pillow beats. It’s often performed during weddings or village celebrations. You can find her following traditional practices during certain moments. She’d go to TMII (Taman Mini Indah Indonesia) to revel in cultural performances, like the Saman dance and Didong.
“Preserving culture is incredibly important because the culture of the Indonesian archipelago is the identity of our nation. It’s also a way to honour and respect our ancestors. Indonesia’s unique cultures make our country famous worldwide for its rich traditions,” expressed Silvie.
Thus, as a message for fellow Gayo people, Silvie hopes her community continues to preserve and promote the Gayo ethnic group’s culture and the broader traditions of the Indonesian archipelago, ensuring that they are passed down to future generations. “But most importantly, young people should develop a love and respect for our cultural heritage,” she concluded.