Billy Bagus
Sep 08, 2025
On a rugged cape at Pantai Mengening in Cemagi village, Mengwi, rises Pura Gede Luhur Batu Ngaus, a sea temple that resembles Tanah Lot at first glance but carries a distinct identity steeped in legend. Built upon a rocky outcrop, this Pura Kahyangan Jagat (universal temple) is revered not only for its role in Balinese spiritual life but also for the enigmatic coral formations and myths that surround it.
Built upon a rocky outcrop, this Pura Kahyangan Jagat (universal temple) is revered for the enigmatic coral formations and myths that surround it.
A Temple Born from a Vision
The origins of Batu Ngaus trace back to a pawisik—a divine revelation—received by a villager centuries ago. The message revealed the presence of a deity dwelling on the shoreline. At the time, this coast belonged to the Kingdom of Kaba-Kaba, whose ruler was invited to witness the sacred site. After ritual blessings, he traveled to the shore and discovered a lone rock in the sea, believed to be the seat of Dewi Kemakmuran, linked to the goddess of prosperity, Ida Bathari Danu.
When the Kingdom of Mengwi later triumphed over Kaba-Kaba, the sacred site came under its rule. Around 1643, Mengwi’s king ordered the construction of Pura Gede Luhur Batu Ngaus, integrating it into the royal spiritual network alongside the inland Pura Taman Ayun. The temple’s name itself comes from the sound of the waves striking the rocks: a hollow, booming ngaus that reverberates like the voice of the sea.
Architecture and Rituals of Prosperity
The sanctuary embodies prosperity and cosmic balance. Its main shrines include a Padma Utama, the palinggih of Bathari Danu, a Sumur Pakelem used for offerings, and a shrine to Ida Ratu Ngurah Sakti. As a sea temple, it also contains Titi Mamah, dedicated to Nyi Roro Kidul, the fabled queen of the southern seas.
The temple’s piodalan (anniversary festival) is held every full moon of Jiyestha (May–June). Rituals begin at the sea temple for one day and continue at the Penataran and pesimpangan shrines inland. Every ten years, the Puri Kaba-Kaba conducts a grand pakelem (sea offering) with a remarkable sacrifice: a buffalo adorned with golden horns.
The ‘Singing Rocks’ of Batu Ngaus
What truly sets Pura Batu Ngaus apart is not only its dramatic setting but the mystical coral rocks that encircle it. Among them, the most legendary is Batu Peken. Local lore tells of villagers hearing the clamor of a busy marketplace around the rock at night—voices bargaining, goods exchanged—as if the stone itself hosted a phantom bazaar. On occasion, the rock is said to emit smoke, a visible reminder of its supernatural power.
Another story speaks of a sacred guardian in the waters: a serpent-like being with the tail of a fish, dwelling among the reefs. This hybrid creature, respected as a duwe (sacred entity), reinforces the temple’s status as a liminal place where ocean, spirit, and myth intersect. The temple grounds themselves are also used for malukat (purification rituals). Visitors seeking cleansing can approach the pemangku (temple priest), or if absent, seek guidance from locals like Ibu Suryati, who tends a stall near the entrance.
Nature, Myth, and Living Heritage
The temple’s physical setting adds to its aura. A hidden tunnel beneath the coral connects the two sides of the rock, visible only at low tide or in calm afternoons. Standing atop the temple, worshippers often describe feeling the vibration of waves crashing below, as if the earth itself were alive.
Today, the temple is both a spiritual haven and a cultural attraction. Its black-sand beach, sweeping sunset views, and well-kept grounds draw a steady flow of visitors, curious to witness both devotion and mystery.
