Billy Bagus
Oct 08, 2025
High in the heart of Gianyar, away from Bali’s beach crowds and resort buzz, lies Tampaksiring. It is a valley where the island’s history, spirituality, and natural beauty quietly meet. Here, rivers shimmer through ancient temples, rice fields stretch across emerald hills, and legends still linger in the air. It feels alive with stories, yet calm enough to let you breathe them in.
Here, rivers shimmer through ancient temples, rice fields stretch across emerald hills, and legends still linger in the air.
The Timeless Allure of Gunung Kawi
Hidden in Banjar Penaka, surrounded by jungle and the sound of running water, Gunung Kawi is one of Bali’s most fascinating ancient sites. The temple complex sits along the Pakerisan River, where ten giant shrines are carved directly into the cliff face, monuments not built but sculpted from stone.
Dating back to the 11th century, Gunung Kawi is linked to King Udayana and the Warmadewa dynasty. Inscriptions found nearby suggest that the largest shrine was dedicated to the king himself, while others honor his sons Airlangga, Marakata, and Anak Wungsu. Standing before the towering carvings, it is easy to imagine the devotion and craftsmanship that shaped this sacred site a thousand years ago. Beyond its royal history, Gunung Kawi was also a spiritual retreat for hermits and holy men. The air here feels still and sacred, like time has slowed just enough for reflection. It is one of those places where history does not just sit in ruins, it breathes.
Following the Sacred Flow of the Pakerisan River
The Pakerisan River is more than a landmark; it is the heart of Tampaksiring. Flowing for over 45 kilometers, this sacred river nourishes temples, rice terraces, and villages that have thrived for generations. Along its banks, you will find important holy sites such as Tirta Empul, Pegulingan, and Mangening, each fed by crystal springs believed to cleanse body and soul. Where the Pakerisan meets the Bulan River, you will come across a campuhan, a natural confluence that symbolizes balance and purification. Locals visit to perform rituals and purification ceremonies, while travelers often pause to take a quiet dip in the cool, holy water.
If you are up for a bit of adventure, you can trace the river’s path through lush ravines and waterfalls, or even try river tubing for a fun and offbeat way to explore Bali’s sacred landscape. It is one of the few places where you can literally follow the flow of history.
Subak Pulagan: Where Faith Meets Farming
Just down the road from Tirta Empul lies Subak Pulagan, one of the oldest irrigation systems in Bali and part of the UNESCO-recognized Subak Pakerisan network. It is a living example of Tri Hita Karana, the Balinese philosophy of harmony between people, nature, and the divine.
The view here is pure magic. Terraced rice fields ripple across the valley, glinting under the sun with Mount Batur and Mount Agung on the horizon. Come early in the morning to watch farmers start their day as mist rolls across the fields. You can walk or cycle through the terraces, and if you are lucky, you will be greeted with a warm smile and a story or two about life on the land.
A New Energy in an Ancient Land
In recent years, Tampaksiring has begun to attract a younger crowd. A growing number of cozy and stylish coffee shops have appeared, offering scenic views and a relaxed atmosphere that blend seamlessly with the area’s calm rhythm.
Among them, Satoorasi stands out as a destination in itself. With its avant-garde architecture, thoughtful interior design, and location right beside the paddy fields, it captures the spirit of modern Bali while staying deeply rooted in its natural surroundings. It is the kind of place where travelers linger longer than planned, sipping coffee while watching the wind move through the rice stalks.
Hidden Waterfalls and Quiet Escapes
Beyond the temples and rice paddies, Tampaksiring hides some of Bali’s most peaceful waterfalls. Air Terjun Melayang, just behind Pura Beji in Pejeng Kaja, spills through the forest in a soft, silver curtain. Air Terjun Tegal Sepih feels more secluded, surrounded by rocky cliffs, while Air Terjun Gana is a great spot to cool off and relax by the water.
Tampaksiring is not the Bali of beach clubs and sunset cocktails. It is the Bali of rivers, rice fields, and rituals, the one that still beats to the rhythm of tradition. Every stone, stream, and shrine tells a story of devotion and balance that has been kept alive for centuries.
