Situated 70 kilometers east of Denpasar, Tenganan stands as a testament to cultural resilience, having resisted the influence of the 14th-century Majapahit kingdom.
The serene village of Karangasem regency comes alive once a year with the vibrant and sacred ritual known as Perang Pandan or Mekare-Kare (Pandanus war). This unique tradition, rooted in the ancient Bali Aga culture, draws locals and tourists alike to witness a spectacle of bravery, blood, and devotion.
A Battle of Valor: The Bedazzling Pandan War of Tenganan
Honoring the God of War
Mekare-Kare is held in honor of Lord Indra, the Hindu’s god of war, and forms the climax of the Usaba Sambah, a month-long series of ceremonies marking the peak of Tenganan's ritual calendar. This grand event, usually taking place in June or July, is a visual and cultural feast. Visitors to Tenganan during this time are treated to traditional dress, instruments, dances, food, and rituals that reflect the village's unique heritage.
The Thrilling Battle of Bravery
The Pandan Wars, lasting two days at the end of the fifth month (sasih kelima) of the Tenganan calendar, are the most anticipated events. Participants, both young and old, take turns in gladiator-style battles wielding thorny pandan leaves and rattan shields. The ritual is a sacred offering to Dewa Indra, with the primary aim of drawing blood as a symbol of devotion and sacrifice.
The fights begin to the rhythmic tune of the selonding gamelan, creating an electric atmosphere as warriors clash. Despite the intense combat, the fighters embrace after each round, embodying the spirit of community and mutual respect. The wounds are treated with a traditional potion made of turmeric, vinegar, cucumber, and antiseptic, signifying the end of the battle and the healing process.
From Tradition to Tourism
In recent years, Mekare-Kare has evolved to include participants from outside the village, adding to the number of gladiators and spectators. This inclusive approach has transformed the ritual into a major cultural event, attracting photographers and curious onlookers from around the world.
The festivities begin around midday with a ritual procession through the village, followed by various ceremonies and the highly anticipated pandan fights. On the second day, the event takes on a more festival-like atmosphere, with a stage set up at the central bale to ensure everyone has a clear view of the action.
Rare Glimpse to Timeless Culture
Witnessing the Mekare-Kare Pandan Wars offers a rare glimpse into the rich culture of the Bali Aga community. The 2024 Tenganan Pegringsingan Cultural Festival, held on June 5 and 6, promises to be an unforgettable experience. From the ritual swings of the Manyunan to the fierce yet respectful pandan battles, visitors are immersed in a world where tradition and cultural pride reign supreme.
For those looking to explore this cultural gem, Tenganan Village is located just 3 kilometers north of the popular coastal town of Candidasa. Visitors are encouraged to make a donation upon entering the village, supporting the preservation of this magnificent ancient tradition.
