We found ourselves driving into Ubud once again, a place that, truthfully, rarely needs an excuse to visit. Between the green rice fields, rich cultural traditions, and some of Bali's most delightful dishes, Ubud is a town that keeps pulling us back.
This time, our destination was Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve. Long admired for its stunning riverside views and distinctive architecture, the resort has recently become sizzling hot in dining circles. The reason? The Mandapa Royal Brunch at Sawah Terrace.
It's not difficult to understand why. In the mornings, Sawah Terrace serves as Mandapa's breakfast venue. Come Sunday afternoon, and the place shifts into one of Ubud's most sought-after brunch destinations, drawing guests from across the island for what may well be the finest Sunday brunch in Ubud. In my opinion, though, it's the best brunch in Ubud. We'll find out why.

We arrived at Mandapa just before lunch, deliberately hungry and ready to do justice to the feast that awaited us. From Mandapa's lobby, we were then transported by buggy down through the resort, where the restaurants and spa are nestled within the valley below.
Sawah Terrace sits near rice paddies that have been carefully preserved by the resort, a thoughtful effort to protect the surrounding landscape. Beyond them, lush tropical greenery spills towards the Ayung River, while dense jungle blankets the opposite bank. Serene, yet the restaurant is so lively during Sunday afternoon.
Indonesian cuisine sits firmly at the heart of Sawah Terrace's culinary identity, and nowhere is that more evident than during its Mandapa Royal Brunch. The brunch showcases everything from fresh seafood and Sop Buntut to traditional Balinese Babi Guling and Indonesian desserts. Guests are free to enjoy every dish as much as they like, as much as they can finish. And ever since the brunch was launched, it has been consistently, unfalteringly brilliant.

Arrived at the restaurant reception, we told our name and mentioned that we had made a reservation for the Mandapa Royal Brunch. The staff greeted us warmly and with a genuine smile escorted us to our table.
Before reaching our table, we stumbled upon a small cultural corner just on the right side of the restaurant entrance. Several intricately crafted Balinese wayang stood on display, and a local artisan sat quietly on a corner, worked on a new piece of wayang.

Curious, we stopped to watch. The wayang artisan greeted us warmly, and just like that, we had an unexpectedly charming conversation about wayang, its history, and its place within Balinese culture. The artisan also encouraged us to take a closer look at the wayang, and told us to play it like a wayang puppeteer. If I have to be honest, it's actually an interesting and a genuine effort by Mandapa to keep the centuries-old tradition alive.
After spending some time with the wayang artisan, we thanked him, then headed to our table. It was a particularly warm afternoon. The sun hung blazing overhead, with barely a cloud in sight. The sky was brightly blue, and the air was undeniably humid. Yet, we didn't feel stuffy, thanks to the surrounding foliage and the ceiling fans.
Sawah Terrace is effortlessly beautiful. Rich timber and wood elements dominate the space, from the flooring to the furniture, and soft sage green touches add a gentle color, echoing its surrounding foliage.

There are two seating options here. The first is a semi-open dining space with a wooden pergola roof and intricate lattice detailing that allows natural light to filter in while keeping the area shaded. If you prefer being closer to nature, there is an alfresco dining area within the outdoor garden, where the tables set under elegant white parasols. Overlooking the Ayung River and surrounded by lush greeneries, here you can enjoy your brunch while hearing the soothing sound of flowing water below.

We soon settled into our seats in the semi-open area. Moments later, a member of staff approached and warmly asked what we would like to drink. Ah, there it was, the question I had been waiting for. Without hesitation, I ordered a glass of ice loloh cemcem, a traditional Balinese drink made from cemcem leaves and prized for its inimitably refreshing flavor. If you've been to Mandapa or ever visited Ambar before, you'll likely already be familiar with it. If this is your very first time to Mandapa, consider this a recommendation. Served ice cold, it was exactly what we wanted on a bright Ubud afternoon like this.
While waiting for our drinks, we got up to explore the brunch spread. The first thing that caught our attention was, of course, the Babi Guling. A whole, huge roasted pig sat proudly on display, carved to order whenever guests approached. The meat was wonderfully tender and juicy, and the crispy skin delivered that irresistible cracking sound with every bite. Thank goodness for whoever invented this dish. We enjoyed the Babi Guling with the handmade Balinese sausage, and of course, the Balinese sambal.

The Oxtail Soup also deserves attention. Unlike any other resorts, where the seasoning is often softened in an effort to appeal to international palates, Sawah Terrace stays true to the dish's roots. The broth is light and comforting, making it approachable even for younger diners, yet it deeply flavorful and rich on the palate. The oxtail itself is so tender that you barely need to chew it. I could happily eat a bowl of it every day.

If you're kin on seafood, don't worry. Despite being located in the heart of Ubud, the sushi and sashimi here are impressively fresh. The sushi selection is varied, and not a single one disappointed, while the sashimi comes in generously thick cuts. The seafood bar offers plenty more to explore, including jumbo prawns, poached scallops with mango salsa, fresh marinated salmon with Balinese pepper, and more.

If you enjoy lobster, the classic Lobster Thermidor is not to be missed. The lobster is cooked perfectly, and the meat slip effortlessly from its shell. A layer of melted cheese gives the dish a rich, creamy topping, while the butter-infused sauce adds warmth and depth to it. The meat itself is tender, sweet, and practically melting in the mouth.

There is also an outdoor grilling station where you can enjoy a variety of freshly grilled seafood. The selection includes everything from jumbo prawns and squid to tuna satay and sate lilit. The tuna satay, in particular, deserves special mention. Grilled over an open flame and coated in a savory-sweet marinade with just the right touch of spice, it gives a beautiful balance of flavors. If you're not fond of spicy food, the staff is more than happy to prepare a milder version for you.

The other star of the brunch is, undoubtedly, the impressive selection of Indonesian dishes. One you simply should not miss is the Babi Kecap, which is pork belly slowly stewed with an aromatic blend of spices, sweet soy sauce, and ginger. The result is deeply flavorful, with the ginger helping to balance the richness of the pork. And there's also Nasi Goreng Buntut, which is nothing short of excellent. Seasoned with Indonesian spices, it delivers all the comfort and familiarity of a home-cooked meal, and the oxtail meat is nicely cooked until tender. Superb.
Yet, among all the dishes on offer, the most extraordinary and inimitable is Nasi Tekor. In a brunch landscape, finding Nasi Tekor in a luxury resort feels almost impossible. Served on a folded banana-leaf plate, the traditional dish features an assortment of vegetables, corn fritters, potato cakes, crackers, and rice, celebrating Bali's true culinary heritage.
If you're craving something Western, there is also a live pasta station. The chefs will prepare your pasta by order, and you can choose from Bolognese, tomato, or basil pesto sauce, paired with either penne or rigatoni. On the other side, protein lovers can enjoy the sirloin beef. But mind this, Sawah Terrace doesn't serve it as a conventional sirloin steak. No, that's not their style. Here, the beef was roasted with Rendang spices, and the staff will served in thin, medium-rare slices, with rendang sauce and potato purée on the side. Legit!

My advice? Don't let yourself get too full, because the dessert selection deserves every bit of your attention. And no, Sawah Terrace certainly isn't faffing about when it comes to dessert. There were plenty of mouth-watering options here, and it all began with a statement. On the table stood large Gebogans, filled with fresh fruit and jajanan pasar, proudly displayed as a reminder that you are enjoying a truly Balinese brunch. Crowning the Gebogans were rows of traditional desserts, from Klepon and Dadar Gulung and Wajik to Serabi and Bika Ambon and Lapis Legit. International pastries made an appearance on the table too, including tangerine pound cake and mango tart.

Truthfully, compared to some other Sunday brunches in Bali, the selection here may not be as extensive. Rather than chasing quantity, Sawah Terrace focuses on quality, and it's proven in every dish. Each one was prepared with attention and sincerity and love. You can taste it in every bite. The seasonings were rich and balanced, every spice was thoughtfully measured, and every cut was carefully thought.
The Mandapa Royal Brunch feels unlike any other brunch I've experienced in Bali. At the same time, it somehow contains everything I love about it. Exceptional food. Genuine hospitality. A beautiful setting. It's serene, vibrant, and without doubt, delicious.
If I'm being honest, Sawah Terrace left me punch-drunk with memories, wondering whether this hazy blend of lush greenery, thoughtful cooking, and humble luxury might actually represent the future of brunch. If that sounds like a bit much, well, it is. The Mandapa Royal Brunch is shamelessly, brilliantly too much.
Sawah Terrace
Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve
Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Gianyar, Bali
Phone: +62 361 4792 777
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