If there’s anything we can learn about Australian culture in the past few years, is how much their brunch and coffee culture has made a lasting impression among Indonesians. When they return home, they bring their discerning coffee palate and brunching habit with them, and demand the whole package at home, Jakarta in particular.
Some top Australian household names cafes have made their way to Jakarta; St. Ali, Toby’s Estate. In April 2018, Sydney-based Devon was the one that decided to make Jakarta to have their first ever overseas outlet.If their Australian stores remind you of the simplicity of a Japanese cafe, the 70-seater Devon in Jakarta is more trendy with swathes of green and pink, light timbers, and white geometric light fittings.
Located in Senayan City’s semi-outdoor space, Crystal Lagoon, Devon serves some of their Sydney branch signature menus that incorporate a lot of Asian (read: Japanese) element to classic brunch fares. Take the Breakfast with the Sakuma’s, for example. inspired by a meal that executive chef Tan had during a trip to Japan with his wife’s Japanese family, is a miso-marinated salmon, served with onsen egg, rice croquette, the iconic kewpi mayonnaise and a sprinkle of Japanese furikake.
I personally love the the Ogre Happy Meal, where a grilled ox tongue sits on a pile of sunny side up egg, hash brown and bed of pureed cauliflower. But no Japanese-inspired menu is complete without a perfectly executed Omurice that have become the local favorite.
Talented young head chef Richard Frederika, who spent almost four years as a sous chef in Sydney’s Devon Cafe came up with some Indonesian staple comfort food to satiate local craves , of course with (almost) over the top twists such as the Truffle Bakmie that mixes egg noodles with truffle-mixed mushrooms and sautéed chicken; Or the Emperor fried rice, that has all the sultriest ingredients: ox tongue, foie gras and onsen egg.
Once a year, Devon celebrates Australia’s truffle season by serving shaved real truffle in some of their special menu, and if you’re that big of a fan, to any food on the menu. Unleash your the experimenting kid in your with the “The Real” Truffle Fries where shaved truffle is sprinkled on soft serve vanilla ice cream and french fries.
A brunch session would not be complete without a nice cup of coffee, and Jakarta’s Devon Cafe presents its own house blend courtesy of prodigious senior barista Rahmat Prayogi. Its tasting menu comprises the likes of Devon on the Rocks and Barangaroo Sidecar, while guests can also sample the Devon’s Unique Blend White Coffee and Featured Speciality Roaster Black Coffee. The Devon blend itself was curated by Devon Cafe’s head barista, together with inputs by Rahmat and Common Grounds Coffee Roaster. The team spent a couple of months to narrow down the exact flavour that would suit the palates of savvy local coffee drinkers.
Another must try is Devon’s long list of fun dessert options; being Japanese inspired, means non of it is tooth-achingly sweet, delicious and always fun to eat. The towering purple Taro Kakigori will make even grown ups squeal with delight and the Lost in The Zen Garden might bases on a simple brioche french toast, but its burst of tangy yuzu and tangerine flavors is anything but.
Senayan City, LG Floor, Unit L-43 and L-43A, Central Jakarta
Hours: Mon-Fri 9am-10pm l Sat-Sun 9.30am-10pm
Phone: +62 21 7278 1590